We’re fortunate in Utah to have a hunt-able population of White-tailed Ptarmigan. “Hunt-able” being a fairly subjective word. The season opens early compared to many gallinaceous upland birds, around the last week of August; usually due to the fact that most alpine areas are snowed in much past September.
Many of the folks that go after White-tailed Ptarmigan end up getting great views, spectacular alpine fishing, and memories to last a lifetime…but often no birds. I should know…I’ve hunted them 5 times…and only found birds twice!
The preparation phase of a White-tailed Ptarmigan trip is intense. The only place to hunt them in Utah is the High Uinta Wilderness, a pristine back country without roads or access by any motorized means. Hunting is by hiking or horse only…and its 10 miles before you even reach the alpine areas they inhabit. There are still truly wild places out west…and this is one of them.
Testing out the dog packs (they don’t really care for them!) and trying to decide what I most need that adds up to less than 60 lbs.
We left on Thursday afternoon and slept at the trailhead; the plan was to ride in on Friday…then start hunting on the Saturday opener. I haven’t hunted upland birds since the close of the chukar season in February. I hoped we were all up the challenge.
My illustrious steed, Ellie, weighted down with all I would need to survive the back country for 5 days.
Awe, who am I kidding? We had a pack horse also, for such luxuries as tents, food, and the little things like shells, cooking supplies, etc. This trip we had it easy!
Shy of a rodeo or two, we made it towards the peaks in the distance in record time. That thar’ is ptarmigan country!
Speaking of “rodeos” I got to really test the merits of the Garmin Astro. As we made our way up the trail The Dude decided that he wanted to get to ptarmigan country sooner rather than later…and before I knew it he was up the trail over 1.5 miles away…in heavy timber! To say the least I was STRESSED!
Well the Astro kept in contact with him the whole way, and I kept an eye to make sure he wasn’t getting off the trail into the timber. It only lost communication three times.
Eventually we set up camp, and some hikers found The Dude and were taking him back to the trail head. He was up at 11,000 feet when they found him…and he’d gone 18.7 miles. I followed the Astro to the trail and picked him up. Man was I flustered…but it would have ended much worse had I not turned on those collars.
Anywho, after I took a good helping of Valium and a shot of crown, we decided get some dinner.
These high mountain creeks and streams held a bounty of small but deliciously edible wild cutthroat trout. Before long dinner was served.
With bellies full and muscles spent we faded off into that restless sleep before a big hunt.
The next morning was brisk at 10,700 feet. It was a chilly 35 degrees as we headed toward the peaks in the distance. Normally you don’t start to find Ptarmigan, at least this time of year, until you hit elevations of 11,500 plus feet…and the higher…the better. A two thousand foot elevation climb is tough enough…but it’s even tougher with low oxygen levels.
The dogs were working the cover very well. One pup, The Dude, liked to show off…and titillate us with an excess of “false points” on various alpine birds…none of which were ptarmigan. Got the heart pumpin’ though…
White-tailed Ptarmigan like high alpine areas. Rocky crags, boulder fields, and sheer cliffs are the places they call home.
The areas we hunted “looked” bleak, but on closer inspection we found a good crop of low growing forbs, grasses, moss, lichen, and other plant matter. And lots of water seeping from every rocky orifice. It was probably drinkable…but we filtered it anyway.
Cliffy areas around and above these lakes below are good early brood habitat, while the adults and many older broods are higher up on the ridges and mountain tops. In the winter they move lower to feed in the alpine willow.
After hiking what seemed like forever (it was actually only 8 miles) we started to get into some sign. Yes that’s Ptarmigan poop. And a feather.
Shortly after, we were treated to one of The Dude’s stylish points. Tired of all these “false” points I went up and tapped him on the head…he rushed forward…and up came the Ptarmigan. Idiot!
After 31 miles The Dude finally tasted sweet victory.
And quicker than you could say “fetch it up” I was admiring a beautiful adult White-Tailed Ptarmigan male, in early fall plumage.
My friend and hunting partner had also just shot himself a gorgeous adult female.
A bird or two went off in another direction, so we went after them, but to no avail. On our way back Oprah went on point…in the area of the original flush. Some birds must have held very tight, and let us…and the pups, walk right on by. Look closely and you can see a ptarmigan on the rock about 10 feet in front of Oprah.
Here Carson takes his second bird of the day.
The 28 ga. CZ “Partridge” just keeps on pleasing.
Carson and his first White-tailed Ptarmigan; an adult female and young male.
A close up of the adult male. They truly are a unique and beautiful bird. Sporting when hunted with pointing dogs, a mountaineering challenge to get to, and all amidst absolutely spectacular scenery.
After that I pretty much had 11 simultaneous heart attacks and was delirious from oxygen deprivation, but I still took a few pics on the way down the mountain.
When we got back to base camp, we breasted out the birds and checked the crops. This early season ptarmigan was eating a smorgasbord of alpine delicacies.
We slept well that night.
The next morning was cold and dreary…and the high alpine is not the place to be during a fall thunderstorm. So rather than hunt one more day we packed up the ponies, tucked our tails between our legs, and headed for the trail head. It was only a mere 10 miles away.
And just in time too…
That’s the official start of the upland season for Jonesy, Oprah, The Dude, and I. But not to worry, I’ll keep ya abreast as to the rest of my various grousings.
-Caleb
Read the entire discussion on Upland Journal.
(Used with permission from Critter Control)
